Monday, November 04, 2013

Tutorial: Making a Corset Pattern

To make a corset, bustiere or torsolette  pattern from scratch so that it fits your doll correctly, you will need the following:
1. your doll
2. cling wrap film - enough to cover the dolls body
3. approx 2 sheets of 2 ply paper towel (preferably plain white) torn into strips
4. PVA adhesive and a flat 3/4 inch paint brush

Begin by covering the dolls body with enough cling wrap to protect where you are going to apply the glue, then using your paint brush dip it in the PVA and paint the area you want the corset/bustier to cover.

Next, cover the torso with torn strips of  paper towel, being careful to mold it around curvy parts like the bust and back. Apply several layers, pulling each strip tightly across the body so it fits snuggly.

Once you are happy with the thickness of the layers ( I used about six) put the doll aside to allow the glue to dry/set.

Once the papier-mache is dry/set, mark out the shape of your design, then the cutting lines to form the pattern with a Sharpie marker (be careful not to mark your doll in anyway).

Notice I have marked three lengths, I will cut the longest one out first, then trim for the lower leg, then the high cut leg, taking reusable patterns of each as I go.

Next, decide where you want to place your seams. The more shapely your doll is, the more likely it will be that you will require more seams. Fortunately for me, I am making mine for an Iplehouse KID.

Now you can cut up the back seam and remove everything from your doll. Cut on the lines, lay flat on brown Kraft paper or butcher's paper and trace around each piece then cut them out labelling them as you go. (i.e. Front, Right Side Front, Left Side Front, etc.) Remember, there are no seam allowances on these pattern pieces, so you will need to add these when you lay out your pattern on fabric.

A corset is a close-fitting garment that has been stiffened by various means (generally whale boning) in order to shape a woman’s torso to conform to the fashionable hourglass silhouette expected during the 19th century. While modern day "corsets" generally mimic an historical style, they have very little, if any, effect on the shape of the wearer's body.

A bustiere is is a form-fitting garment for women, which is traditionally worn as lingerie. The primary purpose is to push up the bust by tightening against the upper midriff and forcing the breasts up, while gently shaping the waist. Nowadays, they are often made with mesh panels rather than the traditional boning and reach down only to the ribs or waist. They may also be worn as a push-up bra under a low-backed dress, or as a camisole for outer wear.

A torsolette is a torso-hugging camisole that resembles a corset (typically featuring decorative front or back lace-up detail), but of more delicate construction and offering little or no figure-molding compression. It usually has brassiere cups and is distinguished from the bustier by its length and by a close, contoured fit which extends past the waistline over the hips with a basque.

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